OTTB Ownership and Information

Now that you are the proud owner of a genuine off track Thoroughbred, what now?

Time to find others that share your love of OTTBs!

There is a plethora of blogs out there dedicated to just the OTTB community:

• Off Track Thoroughbred Help
• Canter (New England)
• OTTB Magazine

-just to name a couple…

The same goes for forums, where you can discuss every topic imaginable.

But you don’t just have to search for OTTB-specific blogs or forums. Search any big-name blog or forum and there will be dozens of topics and threads dedicated to the off track Thoroughbred. They discuss everything from owner-specific problems to general topics like training and feeding.

Keep in mind that forums are a GREAT way to find help with your OTTB when you need it.

If you live in an area where there are lots of horses and horse people, try looking around for horse clubs and communities. You may not find any dedicated entirely to OTTBs, but you are bound to find someone in the club who can share your OTTB love.

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Maybe after reading all the past posts, you decide you like OTTBs, but don’t really have the time to re-train, or even ride, and want a friend to just love. Maybe you have a horse already and are looking for a pasture buddy. Maybe you have a little kid (60-70lbs or under) that just wants a lead line horse.

Whatever the case, consider adopting or buying a fully retired racehorse. Be it from old age or injury, a retired OTTB can still prove itself a fantastic horse.

A retired OTTB can make a great teaching horse. If they are un-rideable due to old age or a past debilitating injury, they can still stand still to help teach a beginner rider or child lean to groom and point to the parts of a horse, they can walk quietly as they learn to lead, and be patient while they learn how to saddle and bridle.

If the OTTB is still rideable, but not for more then walking, they can make wonderful hippotherapy horses. They are usually tall enough to support adult riders, but gentle enough for the littlest ones, as well.

Again, if still rideable, and if they have a sweet disposition, they can make a great first mount for the little rider. Tack them up and head to a local show for leadline classes. But since they are retired (old age, injury, etc.), the rider they carry should not be more then 60 – 70lbs. Any more weight then that could prove to be too much for the retired OTTB.

Retired OTTBs that cannot be ridden any more also make wonderful “babysitters” for younger horses or the casual pasture buddy for a horse you may already have. Horses are herd animals, so they should at least be kept in pairs, if only for their own happiness. And since the OTTB is no longer rideable, they are often sold cheap or even given away for free. However, be careful if you get one. If they are retired due to injury, check to see if they require any continuing medication, treatment, or supplements to keep their injury in check. It could end up being an expensive free horse, if you know what I mean.

So how do you go about finding a retired OTTB?

The same way you find one not retired: just look. The need to find good, loving homes for retired OTTBs is very high, so agencies that rescue, adopt, and foster out regular OTTBs often have a long list of retirees looking for a new home, too. Often, since nobody considers these wonderful horses for adoption or foster, they are in danger of a one-way ticket to the slaughterhouse.

I know I linked to it in one of my first entries, but the Thoroughbred Retirement Foundation (TRF) is a great place to begin your search.

A retired OTTB, happily at home in pasture. (Photo from: afterthefinishline.org)

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Perhaps you are ready for the re-training process, but you aren’t sure what you want to re-train for. Then let’s discuss some of the things your OTTB may have the talent for.

After initial lunge or round pen work, you should have a pretty good idea what kind of things you horse does and does not enjoy, whether they pick up on cues and new information quickly or not, and if they do the work to just do the work or if they actually seem to enjoy themselves.

But, you may have to face the facts: you are working with an ex-racehorse. They quite enjoy doing everything as fast as they can, so something like western pleasure may not be the ideal second career for your OTTB.

There are many second careers well suited to an ex-racehorse. (Pardon the many Wikipedia links that will pepper this blog entry.)

A lot of people find them to make wonderful hunter/jumpers and cross-country rides. The Thoroughbred breed has proven time and again that they are more then capable of becoming wonderful mounts for nearly any type of jump course, and in competitions where speed matters, what better breed to have then a Thoroughbred?

OTTBs can also make a great dressage prospect. Dressage requires a lot of training and discipline, and can be a true challenge for a horse that’s only known how to run, but it’s a great way to teach your OTTB the balance and grace every horse should have.

(Consequently, you could also try something that combines jumping and dressage, such as eventing.)

Perhaps you prefer to go western. Again, your OTTB was built for speed, so barrel racing or pole bending may be right up your horse’s alley. It requires not only speed, but agility as well.

Another western vocation could be cutting or reining. It provides your OTTB with a wide variety of challenges and requires a great deal of concentration and agility on both horse and rider’s part.

If you are more of a laid back sort of person, try teaching your horse to relax and take the trails. Trail ride down the road, at your local park or forest preserve (if they allow equestrian activity), or even in your own back property should you have the space. It provides the horse with a nice variety of stimuli to keep them interested and entertained and can, with the obvious training and experience you will need, be a very relaxing hobby.

There are many second career options available to you and your OTTB, many more then I have just barely mentioned here. Obviously you will begin training in the path you want to pursue, but always keep in mind that maybe your horse doesn’t share your ideals. You can make a horse train in your desired path, but does it make them truly happy?

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The next category for re-training are the horses straight off the track, or have done nothing since being pulled from the track.

As with the previous category I discussed, this category needs just as much ground work as the other. Since they lack common horse knowledge and skills besides RUN, spend the time to do some lunge work and/or round pen work before doing any actual riding. Patience is a virtue, and it will pay off in the end by providing you with a well-balanced, mentally stable horse when your butt finally hits that saddle.

When you are ready to hop up in the saddle, you need to be well prepared.

(Let me take this moment to stress the importance of an ASTM/SEI certified riding helmet. Falling of is always a possibility, and injuries from landing on your head or having your skull accidentally kicked during the fall by your horse are not uncommon, and a helmet can save your life. So – ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET WHEN YOU RIDE! I cannot stress that enough.)

Your OTTB knows only one thing, at this point, when there’s a rider on it’s back: run. And that is all they will want to do – trust me, I’ve been there. Normal cues will mean anything but what you want them to mean; pulling back on the reins means run slow, leaning forward means run fast, giving them leg means run even faster, shifting weight means run fast and turn… you get the point. If your new OTTB has had no other riding experience then his track career, then you will be teaching him the fine art of slowing down. This can be a very in depth process, so I suggest reading this article for more information. It’s actually about training young horses to get on the bit, but your OTTB may as well be in the same boat.

My OTTB -not- on the bit. This can be a common occurance in the start of your OTTBs re-training (never mind the fact that this picture is from about 10 years after I bought him).

Always remember to work with your horse in mind. If you rush it, you will end up with a high-strung, bad-tempered horse. Work at a pace that seems comfortable for your horse and its personality. Some may be smarter then others and pick up their new training quickly, while others may take a very long time to catch on.

I stumbled across a very helpful guide put out by Tranquility Farms that gives wonderful OTTB-specific tips on lunging and exercising, as well as a lot of other great information on feeding and socializing.

This seems like not much information, but it’s really so much that I decided just to touch on the subject – you need to do your own research as there is FAR more then I could possibly tell you in one little blog.

The next category is retired racehorses, but since they technically don’t require “re-training,” per say, they will be discussed in a later post, so next post: Figuring out where your OTTB’s talent lies.

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The fifth step of OTTB ownership is the re-training process. Your OTTB will fall into 1 of 4 categories: abuse/neglect, straight from the track, already re-trained, or retired. If you bought an already re-trained horse, you won’t need to read my entries for a while. But if your horse falls into the other 3 categories, I will be talking separately about them.

First I’ll discuss abuse/neglect OTTBs. These can technically include horses from any of the categories, as this group of horse’s can cross categories, but I feel that abused and neglected OTTBs are their own category. Why? For the simple reason that they will need special consideration, time, and effort in their training. This is the hardest group of OTTBs to work with.

There are some basics that can fit all OTTBs, not just the abuse cases. If they are literally straight off the track, they most likely don’t know how to be horses. They were kept alone in a stall, taken out only to run and be exercised. They will need to be slowly introduced to other horses you may have, and be prepared for dominance fights – they will happen, and there isn’t much you can do except keep an eye on them and separate them if a serious injury occurs; that’s just how horses work, thanks to herd mentality. But OTTBs may be harder to introduce to other horses as they will lack horse social skills. Also, since they were stalled nearly 24/7, pastures and fencing will be foreign to them. Take the time to walk them around the pasture, make sure they take notice of the fence so they won’t run into it later (though if you have electric fencing, be prepared for them to freak out when they inevitably touch it with their nose).

When you start the process of re-training your abused or neglected OTTB, you will have to start slow. It will be a long process. You may have one that was hit in the face, and it will be a challenge just to halter them. Always remember: TAKE IT SLOW. You can’t rush an abused horse – you will just make them even more scared of you. This is the point where a small round pen would be helpful. A round pen will let the horse have it’s freedom while still be confined enough for you to work with it. Spend the time to just build trust; turn the horse loose in the round pen and try just being able to walk up to their head without them turning away or running away. Treats are useful for getting their attention, but be warned that while it is a useful aid, it could build bad manners later on, like treat begging or finger nipping. When you can walk up to them, try slipping the halter on and off, until you get to a point where they don’t jerk their head away or get upset. Remember: these things will not happen fast! While some are smart and quick learners, most may take many weeks or months to trust you. My own OTTB, I quickly discovered after purchase, had issues with being touched on the head. It took a long time before he was okay with it, and now I can do anything I want/need to do to his face, eyes, and ears.

Once a certain level of trust is established, don’t start riding right away. Start with exercising on the lunge line in a round pen. This can also be a trust building experience with your OTTB as they will learn your commands, expectations, and that you have no intention of yelling at them or striking out at them. Lunging will also help condition the OTTB that may be underweight or lack muscling. If that’s true, lunging to build mass and muscle is a must before you even try to ride as riding an underweight horse can put strain on their spine and the little muscling they may have. Once again: take your time, time it slow.

(Click here to watch a video on lunging.)

When it comes time to hop in the saddle, you should be working with a horse that trusts you and has ground and lunging manners (respect for you). If you start the riding re-training portion with your horse in that frame of mind, then the process should be no different then re-training a normal straight off the track OTTB. So…

Next post: re-training an OTTB that is straight off the track.

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The fourth step of OTTB ownership is something every horse owner of any type of horse or pony should know: how to care for a horse. Perhaps you are already an intermediate or experienced horse owner; in that case, maybe you don’t need to read all this. But if you are new to the horse world, there are some basics to know about ownership and care.

One basic need every horse has is pasture. Horses spend from 45%-60% of the day eating, so a well fenced in area of good grass (not weeds or scrub land) is a must-have. Ideally, you need a good portion of grazing land per horse, but the exact amount of space does vary. While only 1 pasture area is necessary, it is nice to have in addition to a grass pasture a dry lot to keep your horse on. A dry lot will keep your pasture from becoming over-grazed in the months you have without snow and you won’t have to throw as much hay. But if you have only 1 pasture, make sure it is well-fenced in with wood, PVC, or electric wire/tape fencing. Barbed wire is NOT good for horses – when they play and explore the pasture, it is very easy for them to get their hooves or legs tangled in it and damaged. If you have current fencing that is barbed wire, I highly recommend spending the money to replace it.

This is the pasture near my barn: note the nice fencing, nice expanse of grass, and barn & lean-to in the back. (Pay no attention to my horse's ears at the bottom...)

The next need every horse has is shelter. If you have only 1 to 3 horses, it isn’t absolutely necessary to have a full barn with stalls. But they do require at least a lean-to shelter with at least 3 sides in their main pasture. A lean-to will provide them with shelter during rain, snow, and extreme sunny days (to shield from over-heating in the sun). It is beneficial to place it somewhere close to the main gate; in rainy or snowy weather, they can be fed in comfort of the lean-to. In weather when they will be spending a lot of time in it, make sure every few says you clean it of all the manure that will build up inside it. It isn’t good for the horse’s hooves to stand in their own excrement for long time periods.

Food is the next obvious necessity. As I said earlier, they will need grass grazing pasture, but on top of that every horse requires hay. Hay comes in a few varieties, but most common is grass hay and alfalfa hay. Grass hay is best for the warmer months of the year because it is merely a dried form of what they are getting in their pasture. Alfalfa is better for the colder months when they are off grass pasture because it is richer and will help them keep on weight for the winter. Most horses, though not all, also require a daily graining. Grain comes in all types: foal to senior feed, oats to pellets, dry to wet and sticky, and so many more. If you are just someone who owns a horse for the fun and do nothing more then ride around at home and trail ride some, then a standard sweet feed grain is a common choice. If you ride more then a few times a week, meaning you put your horse through a heavy work routine, then a performance feed full of fatty additives to keep weight on and electrolytes to keep energy going may be a good option. If your horse is on the holder side, 15 years +, then a feed designed for the senior horse could be right for your OTTB. If you are unsure what kind of feed to give your horse, ask your vet for their opinion. You can also read more on feeding horses HERE.

Your OTTB needs regular exercise and attention. If you want a friendly, happy horse, you will need to spend time with them working them, grooming them, just generally loving them. You can’t expect it to be kind and well behaved if you shove it out in the pasture and don’t touch it again for months. And regular exercise will keep your horse healthy and in shape; obese horses can develop health problems just like humans. If you have a dry lot, that would be an excellent place to ride if no arena is available.

My OTTB and I prefer to exercise outside.

Regular farrier and veterinarian visits are a big necessity. Your horse’s hooves will grow and they will need to be trimmed so they do not cause foot damage. A vet is needed for annual vaccinations, coggins, and general check up. Find a vet you like and keep their number handy – you never know when your horse will have an emergency.

There plenty more things your specific OTTB may need, but those will be something you’ll have the fun of finding out! Read this article for more horse care information!

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(Note to Professor: I changed the order I wanted these to appear. Please look back for the “vet check” entry as my 4th entry. Sorry!)

The second step of OTTB ownership is finding out more about your new horse. Any information you can obtain will be helpful in the re-training (if necessary) process.

If your Thoroughbred was indeed trained to race, they should have a lip tattoo, even if they did not run an actual race. The tattoos are then registered with The Jockey Club.

Lip tattoos are located on the inside of the upper lip; you will have to flip the upper lip up to see it. When you do so, keep in mind that you are working with a 1000 lbs animal and should be gentile about the process. Some can become quite unhappy and it may be a good idea to have a helper – one to hold your horse and one to check the tattoo.

Once you have the tattoo, write it down and save it for your records. With that tattoo number, you can obtain pedigree, race records, and even past history of owners.

The tattoo number should consist of a letter followed by 4 or 5 numbers, depending on the horse’s age. If the horse is over 25, there will only be 4 numbers. If the horse was born in any other country then the United States, there will also be an * before the beginning letter. The numbers identify the specific horse, and the letter at the beginning denotes the year the horse was born. When you get to Z, the letters obviously start over. This chart shows how the letters match up to years (taken from here) :

A = 1971            B = 1972            C = 1973
D = 1974            E = 1975            F = 1976
G = 1977            H = 1978           I = 1979
J = 1980             K = 1981            L = 1982
M = 1983           N = 1984            O = 1985
P = 1986            Q = 1987            R = 1988
S = 1989             T = 1990            U = 1991
V = 1992            W = 1993           X = 1994
Y = 1995            Z = 1996
A = 1997            B = 1998            C = 1999
D = 2000            E = 2001           F = 2002
G = 2003            H = 2004          I = 2005
J = 2006            K = 2007           L = 2008
M=2009            N=2010

Use your tattoo number on The Jockey Club Registry website to look up information about your OTTB. You will need to register for a free account with the site before you begin your search.

However, be aware that if you have a horse that is on the older side and has not raced in many years, they may not show up in an online search. My own horse is no longer listed on the website, but records still exist with The Jockey Club. If that is the case with your TB, the process will be a little longer, but you can still get your information. The tattoo lookup for identifying your horse is free, but there may be a fee for obtaining further information like racing, ownership, and training history, so be prepared for that.

Don’t be upset if you can’t read your horse’s tattoo. The Jockey Club Registry site gives tips for taking decent pictures of the tattoo, which can be sent to them and they will do the research for you the best they can.

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The third step of OTTB ownership getting your potential new horse vet-checked.

Every horse you even consider buying or adopting should be examined thoroughly by a licensed veterinarian for any evidence of illness or underlying injuries.

Racehorses are prone to having track injuries; it’s a rough sport, after all. A vet is the only person who can truly confirm if your horse is sound or not. The current/previous owner may not even know for sure if there were any previous leg injuries that could compromise the health of your potential new horse. And unless you are looking for an un-rideable pasture buddy for another horse, it’s of the utmost importance that the horse you buy be injury-free and sound. X-rays are the best option, even though they are costly, but they are the only (nearly) 100% way to tell if there are past injuries. However, most people only have x-rays done on the horse they strongly think may be “the one.” In most cases, that is perfectly fine. If you are adopting or rescuing, the vet check most likely is included in the process, provided you are going through a reputable adoption or rescue outfit. Non-reputable places or sellers may try to drug a lame horse with painkillers to make them appear sound – be aware of such seedy practices and make sure YOU pick the vet – not the seller! Lamanitis is the biggest thing you will need to look for.

The horse you buy or adopt should also have up-to-date vaccinations, have been wormed, and have proof of current negative coggins (a test to check for Equine Infectious Anemia). All are necessary for a healthy horse. If the horse has never had any of the previously listed done before in it’s life, the vet will need to test for certain illness, worms, and do blood tests during the check to make sure the horse doesn’t house anything contagious or life-threatening. Once you own a horse, you will need to have vaccinations and coggins testing at least once a year and keep on a worming schedule of every 10 weeks.

Also, ask the person you are buying or adoption from if they have ever had any illnesses, such as strangles, or if they are prone to anything like colic. Another important thing to ask might be if the horse has any allergies. Equine are prone to allergies just like humans and can include things like bug bites, certain brands/types of grain or hay, shampoos/conditioners, and medications. If the allergies are severe enough, they may require antihistamine supplements to be given with grain or in bad cases, weekly to monthly shots (something that can be easily taught to you by a veterinarian so that a vet bill won’t be necessary for every shot). Horses can also have diabetes; if the horse does, it isn’t a big deal, but special dietary needs and rules will need to be followed – insulin shots are rare.

Also take a look at the horse’s hooves. They should also be healthy, not over-grown or diseased. Foundering (related to laminitis) can happen to horses and will be fairly evident in the condition of their hooves. Over-grown feet, depending on the severity, can lead to permanent issues. You will need to keep to a farrier schedule of every 6 to 8 weeks. Keep in mind that a horse with shoes will cost more then a bare-foot one.

All this checking and questioning seems like a lot, but without checking on things like the ones I talked about, you could end up with a very expensive horse in the long run. I myself made the mistake of not getting a thorough vet check and found out later that my horse had mild arthritis in his neck and back legs. A thorough initial vet check can save hundreds or thousands of dollars in vet bills later on.

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First topic: obtaining your very own OTTB.

There are two common ways to go about it.

First, there is adoption. There are rescue agencies that obtain unwanted and abused OTTBs and will rehabilitate them before putting them up for adoption. However, be warned that this method is not for somebody who wants a ready-made horse. It is commonplace for the horses to have issues, be it from abusive or lack of post-racing training, so you need to be prepared to deal with the attention, time, money, energy, and training an adoption/rescue horse may or will require. Also, like a humane society or animal shelter, they may require a background check and property inspection to make sure you will be a suitable owner with the facilities to provide comfortably for your potential new horse. Even if you are unsure of adoption, you can always start with fostering an OTTB. Fostering allows you to have to horse on your property and you care for it as if you owned it. However, fostering usually entails that you have a horse with “baggage” that needs to be cared for before being put up for adoption. They may have anything from abuse injuries that need time to heal, to mental issues that limit the handling of the horse and need to be slowly and specially dealt with. A wonderful OTTB adoption site to start at is the Thoroughbred Retirement Foundation. From that site, you can acquire much more information.

Balou is an example of an abused OTTB - this is how he looked when my friend bought him. (Photo taken by me, used with permission of owner, Jen Scianna.)

Second, most people who have an OTTB will mention so if they are placing theirs up for sale. A website like Dreamhorse.com is a good place to start, and the search can be narrowed to your general area, price range, breed – things like that. This option of merely searching the sale ads is a more tedious method, but for the new or inexperienced horse owner this way is more likely to produce the proverbial “ready-made” horse, aka: a horse without the “baggage” an adoption or rescue OTTB may have. But the downside to that is you never know if the previous owner has lied about the horse. Of course, that is always a risk any buyer will have to take. A good idea is to see if you can try the horse on a trial basis; house and care for the horse at home as if it were your own for a week or two with the agreement (always get it in writing) that if it doesn’t work out, you can send it home.

There are a few things to remember, whether you are adopting or buying. First, take your time and search around. You need to find the horse that’s right for you, not just the one you think is cute or feel sorry for. Most people (of course there are always exceptions) don’t settle on the first horse they see or ride. It may take only a few weeks to find the OTTB of your dreams, or it could take months or a year. Be patient! Second, make sure you really understand the logistics of owning a horse in general, not even just and OTTB. Make sure you have a good financial situation as a horse’s basic needs include food, shelter, vet, and farrier expenses, along with all the money you need to invest in properly fitting tack and accessories like halters, blankets, and brushes. But not only should you have the money to care for it, but make sure you have the time, patient, and energy. Horses are not just property, they are a living thing that needs you. If you ignore them, you will regret it.

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For the horse lover looking for that special horse that not everyone has, there’s the option of adopting, rescuing, or happening across an ex-racehorse – the off-track Thoroughbred (aka: OT-TB). My aim is to provide you with the information to find, care for, understand, train, and love your OT-TB. I myself am the proud owner of an OT-TB, Bye Bye Bolero, and I’ve had him for 12 years.

My own goof-ball OT-TB

So, if you’re not a horse person, turn back now.  I will talk of nothing but horses, horses, horses! Enjoy – comment often – help spread the knowledge!

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